Thursday, September 27, 2007

From a bike.


In New Orleans, the streets or canals that surround a community can describe its neighborhood boundary, but there are also indications of boundaries, which shape the communities. These indicative boundaries can be as simple as a fenced yard or the bikes outside of a coffee shop. To understand my neighborhood boundary I took a bike ride through two neighboring communities. I started at the edge of the French Quarter on Esplanade Avenue and rode through Marigny, Bywater (my community) and St. Claude neighborhood districts.
Esplanade Avenue is a major road with a neutral ground that physically divides Marigny from the French Quarter. Crossing Esplanade I noticed a distinct change in the pavement and sidewalks. The slate sidewalks and ground entry buildings of the French Quarter are refined to accommodate a tourist economy. In Marigny the separation of sidewalks from the entry or raised entries accommodate individual privacy for members of a community. Houses that are setback from the sidewalk to introduce a private concrete yard are also common. These were indications of an existing community through the nature of the built environment. There were also social indications. Passing by a causal conversation between two neighbors across the street from one another, I noticed a sense of satisfaction that each of the two had by standing in their own yard and communicating across the street. The intimate value of ownership is evident when entering the community of Marigny, but the question is where that community begins. The technical boundaries of Marigny form a trapezoid from the river, north to Claiborne Avenue. The commercial area of Marigny lies along Frenchmen street where the ground level entry and balconies are conditions that accommodate tourism. This linear stretch of bars and cafes really seems to have bled over from the Quarter; however the division created by Esplanade Avenue keeps the condition of the locality. The scale and economy of Frenchmen street does not attempt to compete with similar streets of the French Quarter, its value lies in the intimacy of the neighborhood. It is interesting to mention that those looking to toss beads at drunken bar patrons in overcrowded streets would be very close to their desired address but out of context on Frenchmen street. Passing Frenchmen street, the edge of Elysian Fields is approached in a similar way to Esplanade Avenue. The physical division by a major road is the case in both Esplanade and Elysian Fields; however the trees lining Esplanade create a “public canopy” that makes the traverse less obtrusive. The open-air neutral grounds of Elysian Fields create a expansive physical boundary between two parts of Marigny. When approaching Elysian Fields on bike your momentum increases and crossing the road becomes a focused task.
After crossing Elysian Fields the momentum slows and the sense of community is renewed. Residents emerge from their houses to grab the paper. Contractor’s circular saws buzz as renovations to houses are being completed, and coffee shops open their doors to the community.
Moving across my third boundary Franklin Avenue on Chartres the technical boundary for the Bywater begins. Franklin Avenue presents less magnitude as a physical boundary than both Esplanade Avenue and Elysian Fields. The shift of the city’s grid is evident but the locality has not altogether been transformed just as in Marigny, the shotgun house sits at the sidewalk’s edge with its entry raised and the first hand conversations between residents still persist. Continuing on Chartres St. the smell of pralines and coffee in the air is like a public asset that is the byproduct of PJ’s coffee processing, and Aunt Sally’s Praline factory. The light industry that sits at the river seems to pose minimal disadvantages to the integrity of the Bywater’s spirit. In fact in this edge of the Bywater there is a small green space that sits in Marigny on Decatur and Spain. The green square is surrounded by light industry on all four sides; however, I’ve passed people enjoying the space as a dog park on numerous occasions. Ahead of Aunt Sally’s on Chartres is Press Street the fourth boundary in route through the Bywater. This boundary is a railroad crossing that I have personally created a hostility toward. The rail line extends pass the Bywater’s northern boundary of St. Claude and frequently stops for extended periods of time blocking both pedestrians and vehicles. The inconsistency of the trains make traveling unpredictable but the temporary boundary that it creates often secludes the anxious traveler. This temporary boundary of the train sometimes tempts the traveler to find alternative ways around, of which I have yet to find. The advantage of the Press Street boundary is the two-way road that makes movement from the top part of the neighborhood to the bottom easier. Press street’s boundary seems to only accommodate the Bywater as an infrastructural component. Beginning on Montegut as I rode east the Bywater neighborhood became prominently embedded in its symbols of local significance. Over half of the residents live in a shotgun house that meets the street, most often without obstruction of fence or trees. Making way past houses on bike observing the one notices the gates that connect each house to the next. Some gates have barbwire, some beads, and some are a collage of materials to hold back intruders. These personal boundaries seem like the only boundaries that keep the community from being intimately open. This intimate closure is only a security issue. Passing Markey’s Bar at the intersection of Lousia street and Royal street I was presented with symbols of the neighborhood’s true open quality, the bicycle. If the SUV is a symbol of suburban lifestyle, the bicycle is the symbol of the Bywater lifestyle. The bicycle would be a priceless asset to a suburban lifestyle in an economy where fuel has become inefficient; but the typical suburb’s location in relation to personal destinations has a quality of being “Too far to walk. Too far to bike” giving the bicycle temporary value. Passing your neighbors in a vehicle compared passing them on a bicycle is similar to having a conversation on the phone versus having one in person. One experience is immediate the latter is separate. The immediacy of an encounter with another biker seems universal. There is an innate tendency to acknowledge the other biker even if it’s a wave or nod. This same notion in a vehicle has probably been lost due to a large amount of drivers.

Barrie Greenbie states “I will consider the formation of cultural groups as the human social expression of the universal tendency of things in nature to form clusters of like entities, which are thereby distinguishable from different entities.”

These symbols of the Bywater are also seen across New Orleans but the timeless nature of the Bywater neighborhood addresses an origin or authenticity to the symbols.
As I cross St. Claude into the St. Claude neighborhood the sidewalks began to break apart or disappear altogether. There was an obvious issue of security as barred windows and doors were regular on most houses. The streets were lined with cars but there were not as many people outside. Passing a man on Congress street I waved and he waved back in reply asking, “how ya been.” “Good,” I replied as I rode by. I didn’t understand the why he would ask how I’ve been when he had just met me, but it is becoming clear to me how vital that intimate level of communication really is to establishing a sense of community or homogeneity.

1 comment:

Liz said...

Bob,

Overall, a wonderful way of approaching the assignment: the difference between technical and experiential boundaries. I like how you identify the “intimate value of ownership.” This makes me think about so many things related to the city post-Katrina, i.e. how displacement has affected people, how home ownership can be such a defining part of one’s identity.

“It is interesting to mention that those looking to toss beads at drunken bar patrons in overcrowded streets would be very close to their desired address but out of context on Frenchmen street.” Ooh, this is nice. Can you elaborate, though? I think you’re hinting at the nuances of being a local / “locality” as you mention previously. This is worth pursuing in more detail as a theme.

A very astute observation about the impact of Elysian Fields. Any idea when this road was built in relationship to the Marigny neighborhood? I also enjoy how you’ve identified the use/value of Press Street as infrastructure because it is 2-way. Very perceptive.

There are a few sentences that sound like you’re trying to say something specific, yet they are so vague that I’m not sure what I’m supposed to glean from what you’re writing. For example: “These were indications of an existing community through the nature of the built environment.” ?? I’m just not sure what these means. Can you clarify?

Likewise: “Beginning on Montegut as I rode east the Bywater neighborhood became prominently embedded in its symbols of local significance.” What, specifically, are the symbols of local significance? How are symbols different than architectural realities/cues?

Don’t rely on spell-check because it won’t pick up on words that are spelled correctly but still not correct...be sure to proofread: “causal conversation” This means that the conversation has a cause...but I think you mean ‘casual.’

Watch for long sentences: “The shift of the city’s grid is evident but the locality has not altogether been transformed just as in Marigny, the shotgun house sits at the sidewalk’s edge with its entry raised and the first hand conversations between residents still persist.”
Minor point: our neighborhood is called “Bywater,” not “the Bywater.” You can always tell a newcomer from a local by who uses the ‘the!”

Finally, I think you could make a strong argument comparing the qualities of a walkable neighborhood like Bywater vs. the typical automobile-driven suburb. You allude to this and it could make for a fantastic final essay theme.